Blenheim

After our Abel Tasman adventures we were well up for some days serious culinary and vinous excess and were greeted by Robert and Liz who had bravely carried out some research in advance of our arrival, with a bottle of "No. 1 Family " pink fizz chilling away.  So, with our hire bikes this was the first winery we visited next day and got on so well we ended up behind the tasting counter for our group shot.

Rock Ferry and Alan Scott wineries followed as we wobbled around Cloudy Bay, Nautilus and the other iconic names.

The next day the two of us drove to Picton to take a water taxi to walk part of the coastal Queen Charlotte Track on Marlborough Sound. We did the walk with a interesting radiologist from New York.

Dinner that night was in the Hans Herzog winery and one of the best meals of the trip.

Nelson, Kaiteriteri and Abel Tasman

The weather in Nelson was such a washout that we saw very little of it, instead going to the cinema to watch La La Land!

Actually the most memorable moment for Carolyn when she was lying in bed and she felt the earth move; with a 5.1 Richter scale earthquake! Nic had his own earthquake moment having a pee in Picton, the locals talk about quakes as we do the weather.

We found better weather in Kaiteriteri on the coast just outside the Abel Tasman national park in an eco resort in the hills adjacent to a stonking mountain bike park of which Nic took full advantage while Carolyn took full advantage of the pool and the washing machine did its stuff.

Having carefully repacked our gear into drybags (how many hours of this trip have been spent packing/ unpacking?) for our 3 day kayak/ trek we set off on a high speed "water taxi" to the North end of the Abel Tasman park, in blazing sunshine ( for the whole 3 days! ) to walk to the lodge prior to picking up our 2 man kayak the next day.

On the first day of kayaking we were a group with a guide, the second, unsupported, a first for us. Paddling along in and out of the coves and bays, searching out the wildlife was idyllic, especially the sting rays and shags swimming under the kayak.

Picnic lunch on Mosquito Cove (none to be seen!)

Another first was on the first day kayaking with the guide when we joined together the four kayaks, placed a large tarpaulin on two paddles which we then erected with the front two persons gripping on for grim death and off we went, a big breeze directly behind us, almost planing along for a good mile.

Just pottering along by ourselves on the second day was even better once we had crossed over the 'Mad Mile", a known stretch of choppy water which was thankfully calmish on the day.

The accommodation was interesting as well, a lodge in the wilds the first night with some brilliant glow worms in a rocky enclave the grounds, eels to feed in the marshland and a great night sky and Aqua Packers, a floating hostel, on the second which was great fun and with an excellent BBQ supper.

Having paddled our way back to Marahau we drove to Blenheim to meet up with Robert and Liz again at our accommodation in the middle of a vineyard. 

Arthur's Pass and Greymouth

The Transalpine railway journey from Christchurch, on the east coast to Greymouth on the west coast of South Island is one of the railway classics and we were lucky enough to travel the first half in glorious sunshine. On reflection though, we actually thought the Taieri Gorge trip, on a smaller scale, had more impressive scenery.

We stopped halfway at Arthur's Pass to meet up again with Robert and Liz with a plan to walk the Avalanche Peak Track. Sadly, the tops were obscured by cloud to say nothing of the rain so we had to think again. We were told that even by travelling about 10 km down the valley we would find better weather and we were sceptical but in fact found another excellent track, the Bealey Spur, for an alternative full day walk with great views.

The next day we rejoined the train in the pouring rain to a aptly named (not sure it was just the weather!) Greymouth to pick up a car for the drive to Nelson. Had almost listened to all of our Desert Island and other podcasts by the end of that drive!

Kea interested in our lunch!

Banks Peninsula and Christchurch

Another long (400 km) drive, to this beautiful mountainous peninsula south east of Christchurch. We stayed on the coast in the French nuanced ( slightly twee?) seaside village of Akaroa in a b and b that managed to convey the impression of being at an English country house party with drinks and canapés for all the guests at 6 pm! We had one of the best walks of our trip in the national park and certainly the sunniest and hottest.

Spectacular views of the coast around the peninsula!

We also visited the Giant's House, a former banker's residence taken over by a sculptor and horticulturalist who had filled every spare inch of her garden with wacky mosaics in a style reminiscent of Gaudi and Dali.

Though we knew our Christchurch hotel was close to the middle of the city we found it difficult to believe we were there because of its spread out and low rise nature. The still devastated central district after the February 2011 earthquake we were expecting, and a excellent city walking tour gave us more understanding of the psychological impact on the residents as well as the physical damage.  

185 Chairs, a moving memorial to those whose lives were lost

Shipping containers abound including the Re:START shopping mall made entirely of them, with the plan to replace them with more permanent structures. Getting businesses back into the central area is proving difficult.

Christchurch Cathedral: Future still uncertain

Cardboard Cathedral:  Very elegant interior and now expected to last for 50 years

New Regent Street, 1930s Style, first street to reopen in the central district

Mount Cook

We started early in the rain and then sunshine for the 500 kilometre drive to Mount Cook. Amazing changes in terrain and light.

The view of Lake Pukaki with the Mount Cook range in the background was one of the best of the whole trip. It was difficult to stop taking pictures!

Dinner in The Hermitage that evening with the sun setting on the mountains through the panoramic windows all around was also a highlight.

The next day was all change weather-wise again. Howling winds and horizontal rain for the Hooker Valley track walk to a glacial lake complete with icebergs. Absolutely soaked through. Robert and Liz were fortunate enough to enjoy the same walk in glorious sunshine a couple of days later.

Curio Bay

Leaving Dunedin we drove to the south  (of the South Island ) on the South Scenic Route, initially in the sunshine, along the coast alongside the crashing surf then the lush rolling hills and long winding roads with virtually no other traffic. After a stop to visit Cathedral caves we reached Curio Bay.

Our beach cabin was in the dunes yards from the sea with nesting blue penguins underneath our patio (heard but not seen), rare yellow eyed penguins to watch on the beach and returning to their nests at night across the petrified forest, and Hector dolphins playing in the surf. Great stargazing too.

Dunedin and the Otago peninsula

Dunedin was named after Edinburgh and is reminiscent of that city (albeit without the Scots these days) set in the topography of San Francisco. Imposing Victorian architecture and lots of history, being at one point the biggest city in NZ.

On our own again, the two of us had a good city tour with a would be novelist, especially enjoying the mural street art and learning about how earthquakes had affected the city and its people.

Railway Station 1906

Dunedin also has the steepest street in the world, Baldwin Street, scene of the annual Cadbury Jaffa race;we had to walk it!

Maximum gradient 1:2.86

We then picked up the first car of the trip, Harry, and had two nights in a little cabin on the Otago peninsula,a taste of isolated luxury with an outdoor shower with amazing views. Some chilly wet weather saw us using up their wood supply and eating in. When we did get out to the local beaches we got close up and personal with a huge sea-lion blocking our only pat ; not to be messed with so we found an alternative route!

Central Otago Rail Trail

Back to Queenstown to stay in a Airbnb owned by a friendly widow who apart from providing a fridge full of provisions also poured wine into us as we enjoyed chatting to her from her lounge with its stunning view over the lake and the Remarkables range of mountains.

Then off to Clyde to begin the four day cycle trail; a bit like the Milford track in that no very long distances were involved but the weather and detours always resulted in a full day. 

Hollyhocks and roses: It IS summer!

Once again we had the full menu of South Island summer weather including one very wet day indeed where all of our waterproofs were useless and one day where the wind was against us continuously. However we were usually able to find some shelter in the small cafes which have grown up along the trail serving superb carrot cake, not that the trail was exactly crowded with sometimes hours passing in between seeing other riders.

Ophir, former gold town

Relief at reaching the highest point on the wettest day! 

Wedderburn cottages: Dry clothes!!!

There has to be one sheep picture !

Rather gory line of about 20 boar skins

Good lodges too, with the company of other chatty riders at Kokonga Lodge. As always it was the scenery that was the real star. New Zealand has the most beautiful scenery in the world and there is just so much of it !

Church typical of the area

Finish at Middlemarch, 150 km on!

At the end of the cycle we had the narrow gauge Taieri Gorge rail trip from Middlemarch to Dunedin; yes, more stunning scenery!